Seasonal planning tools, crop trackers, and harvest logs for home farmers and small producers.
Buy Now — $19 →“I’ve tried spreadsheets, apps, nothing stuck. These templates are simple and actually work for the way I farm.”
“The budget planner helped me figure out where I was losing money on inputs. Game changer for my first market season.”
“The seed saving log alone is worth it. I finally have a system for tracking what’s worth saving each year.”
Pulled straight from the Planner Bundle — this is what the inside actually looks like.
Every farm runs on a calendar, even the ones that don't realize it. The difference between a hit-or-miss season and a planned one usually isn't effort — it's knowing when to put seeds in, when to expect a frost, and when to have everything out of the field before the weather turns. That's what this chapter is for. We're going to map out a full year of work in a way that fits on one page and that you can fill in by hand.
Step 1: Find your average last frost date. This is the single most important date on the whole planner. Look up your USDA hardiness zone, then check your local extension office or a frost-date calendar for the average date of the last light frost in spring. Mark it. Circle it. That date is the anchor for every planting decision in the front half of the year. Everything that goes in the ground before that date has to be hardy, or it has to come out again if a late frost hits.
Step 2: Work backward in two-week blocks. Once you have your last frost date, count backward in two-week chunks. Sixteen weeks out: start onions, leeks, and brassicas indoors. Twelve weeks out: tomatoes, peppers, eggplant indoors if you have a warm spot for them. Eight weeks out: direct-sow peas, lettuce, spinach, carrots, beets. Four weeks out: harden off your transplants, prep beds, lay plastic if you need to warm the soil. Two weeks out: watch the ten-day forecast like a hawk.
The seasonal calendar template in this bundle gives you one row per crop and one column per two-week block, so you can shade in outdoor windows, indoor seeding windows, transplant dates, and expected harvest windows on the same page. A few things to keep in mind:
Fill the calendar in pencil. The first year is a draft. The second year is when you start to see what actually works on your land — your microclimate, your soil, your time. By the third season, the calendar will save you more time than it took to make.